All Chef Should Train At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Eatery Secures 4th on Roll of London’s Best Restaurants.
When assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. However, situated high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.
A Unexpected Recognition
The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners utterly shocked.
“I’m totally shocked,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.
A Appeal of Modesty
This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.
A Signature Offering: Tantuni
However, it is focused on the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.
The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.
It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.
Surpassing the Stars
Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.
The Philosophy of Heart
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.
“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.
The Path of Perseverance
Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
A Recognition for the Community
This restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary honour.