Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city is little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always defined its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to discover these tales and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
